West Ridge of Marmolada
West Ridge of Marmolada
Duration - 9 hours
CHALLENGING
This route crosses 2 glaciers and requires competency in route selection, roping techniques, and equipment (harness, helmet, ice axe, and crampons). If you lack the experience then you click here to hire a guide.
Drive to the Lago Di Fedaia Reservoir, under Marmolada, and park on the mountainside just under the lifts. Take the strange-looking 2 person pen lift to Refugio Pian dei Fiacconi at 2626m. When I did this in August the lifts opened at 8.30 am and it is best to get there early. With a long day ahead and the lifts down closing at around 4.30 pm, you do not wish to spend an unexpected night on the mountain or in the Refugio. To check the lift times click here.
From here take the well-marked route to the west, starting just under the lift station, contouring and descending a little on route 606 until the route swings south as it rounds one of the lower buttresses of Marmolada and then heads south over boulders and scree up a re-entrant to Forcella Marmolada between Piccolo Vernel (right) and the Marmolada (left). Then, with crampons, an axe, and (if in a group) roped together climb obliquely right up a steep glacier (Ghiacciaio del Vernel) until they reach the base of the rocky wall under Forcella Marmolada. From here you will find the start of a steep but straightforward stretch of via ferrata. Follow this for about 20 minutes to a saddle, Forcella Marmolada (2910m), which contains several WW1 positions.
Just to the left the via ferrata recommences which, over a series of steep slabs, leads up the long western ridge to Punta Penia (the highest point on Marmolada). This will take about 60 minutes until you reach the summit ridge. You then traverse left and upwards, assisted by some long sections of cables to a huge cleft in the rock that you walk around. You have now reached the start of the gently rounded summit snow and ice field. Walking through snow and screes after a further 20 minutes you reach the summit Punta Penia (3342m). The summit is marked by a large metal cross and about 100m away is a Refugio Capanna Punta Penia which is more like a porta cabin that has been strapped to the rocks. This is a self-catering arrangement that sleeps 5 people and is open from June to September (Phone: +390462764207 or mobile: +393460334949).
To descend go northwards over a snowy and icy ridge towards Pian dei Fiacconi. When I climbed the mountain in August sufficient snow had cleared to provide a ledge, clear of snow along its eastern edge. As you get near the end of the spur you will find the Via Ferrata route leading down to the large Marmolada glacier through a series of crevices.
Once on the glacier you can put your harness and crampons on and make your way down the glacier for about 1 km until you reach the morass of rocky ground at the bottom. The Guides Office in Cortina can give you good advice on the state of the glacier and its crevasses. In August I found the top part to be snow-covered and easy going although the lower sections were hard black ice and we had to go very slowly and carefully as the crampons and axe had little purchase. The crevasses however were open (free of snow) and easy to cross.
Once below the glacier, a further descent of about 800m over rock and scree takes you back to the lift station by Refugio Pian dei Fiacconi (2626m-8610ft). In July the lifts closed at 4.30 pm and if you miss them you can either stay at the hut or walk down to the lake following route 606. This will take just over an hour.
Would you like a guided tour?
Please get in touch if you would like to arrange a private guided via ferrata tour of the Dolomites.