Ferrata Giovanni Lipella, Tofana di Rozes
Ferrata Giovanni Lipella, Tofana di Rozes
Duration - 9 hours
CHALLENGING
Probably my favorite via Ferrata - encompassing WW1 experience, a 3,000m peak, challenging Via Ferrata, and a great wilderness setting.
Drive west from Cortina on the Falzarego Pass. 5 minutes after Pocol, at a spot height of 1698 meters take the narrow metalled track on the right north for 1,500 meters. As the tarmac finishes continue on a graveled road for about another 1.5 km until you reach Refuge Dibona at which there is a large car park. Leave the car and continue on foot on route 403. Follow this to the north as it winds its way gently up the valley. On the left, you will see the flanks of Tofana de Rozes and the path that runs parallel and under the rock face. Leave track 403 at a point where you can traverse across the valley to join this path, marked as Route 404. After a short distance, you pass a sign to Grotto de Rosana, a cave well worth visiting, which can be accessed about 10 minutes above the path. The route to the cave is protected and the cave (head torches necessary) provides a short circular route inside the mountain which can be completed in 15 minutes. Drop back down to route 404 (or continue if you decide against a visit to the cave) until the route meets a path on the right with clear signs to the Ferrata Giovanni Lipella. Take this and after 20 minutes you will reach the start of the Ferrata at the bottom of a rung and ladder system that leads directly into caves above.
Here you will find a small cave system completed during the Great War which still has a lot of the original wood and steel in place. The tunnel climbs steeply for about 100 meters with tunnels, rooms, and gun positions leading off it until it brings you out into the open on the side of the mountain. There is an earlier exit but it is worth continuing to the top and then taking a well-protected route back down to the earlier exit. You now find yourself high up on the eastern flank of Tofana de Rozes. From here and for the next 3 hours you will traverse the mountain to the north, mainly on protected sections (some quite steep) with great views to the left of Lagazuoi and the Fanes range until you arrive at a point (marked as Tre Dita), ideal for a well-earned break.
Here you have 2 options – the toughest and most fulfilling is to take a protected route that switches back above the previous route you took into a vast arena of rock that leads up to a saddle just under the summit of Tofana de Rozes. Alternatively, you can take the path leading east from Tre Dita which contours around the mountain before dropping down to Refuge Giussani about 2 km away. Assuming you take the route to the saddle you now have the opportunity to climb to the summit of Tofana de Rozes. The route to the summit and the return to the saddle takes just under an hour. As one of the highest mountains in the Dolomites, the views from the summit are well worth the effort with Marmolada, Monte Castello and Cristallo, Cinque Torri, and Lagazuoi in full view.
From the saddle, you take the route, marked by blue markers, to the Refuge Giussani which takes about an hour and can be a little difficult initially with multiple paths on very broken ground. Just below the Refuge spend a little time exploring the old troop quarters and positions from the Great War before taking Route 403 down the mountain to where you have parked the car.
Would you like a guided tour?
Please get in touch if you would like to arrange a private guided via ferrata tour of the Dolomites.