Ferrata Eterna Brigata Cadore, Punta Serauta (Marmolada)
Ferrata Eterna Brigata Cadore, Punta Serauta (Marmolada)
Duration - 4-5 hours
VERY CHALLENGING
If you are after an energetic day this via Ferrata is ideal to do in the morning and then links into the Ferrata Delle Trincee, on La Mesola, described previously. Park outside the Refugio Passo Fedaia, to the east of the Lago di Fedaia (the large reservoir under the Marmolda glacier), and then walk due south up the large and winding track to the left of the ski lift, heading directly towards the eastern flank of Marmolada. Just before the track crosses under the lift (about 100m before) leave the track and follow the red route markers (quite indistinguishable at times) and cairns until the slope steepens as you get to the start of the rock. After about 30 minutes from leaving Passo Fedaia, you reach the metal plate marking the start of the Via Ferrata.
The start is probably the toughest part of the climb with a lot of upper body strength required to haul yourself left around the buttress, traversing for 15 minutes onto the eastern face of Punta Serauta. Once on the face the angle of slope decreases which is just as well as you now head pretty much directly up a huge slab of rock, climbing at least 200 meters before you reach a ridge.
When I did this in the summer of 2017 some of the cables were quite slack and in places some of the stables, whilst attached to the wire, were no longer attached to the rock! Just prior to reaching the I passed a couple of strange metal structures which I imagine played some role in dispersing the build-up of snow to avoid large slab avalanches (or lightning conductors?).
You contour around the ridge for about 5 minutes and then break out onto the western side of the Punta Serauta ridge with magnificent views of Marmolada and its glacier.
The route then follows the ridge, initially on the western side before throwing you back onto the eastern side. The drops are pretty sheer but the protection is good and the climbing straightforward. After about 40 minutes, having passed under the summit of Punta Serauta, you reach some extensive and well-kept WW1 positions with some tunnels and caves. These are worth exploring. The cable car station is a further 20 minutes beyond which you reach after a gradual descent and then walk over the barren ground that forms the basis of the winter ski slopes.
The cable car descends down to the village of Malga Ciapela from where you can either catch a bus up to your car or walk for 20 minutes until you reach a chairlift which will take you up to Refugio Padon from where you can descend to your car (about a 20-minute walk), or move onto the Ferrata Delle Trincee, on La Mesola.
Would you like a guided tour?
Please get in touch if you would like to arrange a private guided via ferrata tour of the Dolomites.